Construction of a knit nightgown (I) / Cum se coase o camasa de noapte din tricotaj (I)

Another month passed sinds I wrote last time on my blog. Unfortunately I had an accident (left thumb pierced by the needle while I was quilting; the needle hit the bone and broke; the tip of it, longer than 1/4" stayed in my thumb 2-3 days until I realised what happened).

A mai trecut o luna de cand am scris ultima data.Din nefericire am avut un accident. Mi-a intrat acul de la masina de cusut in degetul mare de la mana stanga cand quiltuiam free motion. A atins osul si s-a rupt. Varful mi-a ramas in deget, ceea ce nu am descoperit decat dupa 2-3 zile... Dupa aceea doctor, etc... etc... 

I think I must finish this year with a nice (and useful, I hope) tutorial about how I sew now a t-shirt / night gown, combining different methods of constructions I read about or I saw demonstrated in Craftsy classes. 

Cred ca a venit timpul sa inchei anul cu un tutorial despre cum cos acum un t-shirt sau o camasa de noapte din tricotaj, fiindca am incorporat in modul de cusut diferite metode despre care am citit sau pe care le-am vazut pe Craftsy si care dau un rezultat mai bun decat ce faceam eu inainte.

 Jojo with her pink night gown / Jojo cu camasa de noapte roza

The gown for the tutorial / Camasa pe care am pozat-o pentru tutorial

I took from each source what it seemed to me clever to do, but I add to these compilation my own solutions. These are my new methods, my own or copied from 'sewing stars' .

Asa cum am zis, am luat de peste tot ce mi s-a parut mai bun decat ce stiam eu. Va prezint succint metodele noi, ale mele sau copiate de la somitati in croitorie.

The construction of the neck, the way I sew, without pins (mine) and the way to serge perfectly the neck and neckband (Martha Pullen's). The easiest way to measure the length of a neckband (Linda Lee's from Sewing Workshop).

Cos acum banda de la gat fara ace de gamalie (metoda mea). Am o noua metoda de surfilat banda de la gat rotund, ca sa se vada cat mai putin unde am inceput si unde termin (metoda vazuta la Martha Pullen). Cea mai simpla metoda de pus banda este cea demonstrata de Linda Lee pe Craftsy.

Putting the sleeve flat and sewing without pins (mine). You will see why it is not the classical method. Finishing the sleeve (Pam Howard's on Craftsy).

Pun maneca 'plat', fara sa cos intai tivul de la maneca si fara sa am ace de gamalie cand cos. O sa vedeti ce fac altfel. Finisez maneca cusand-o spre corsaj, nu spre maneca (metoda lui Pam Howard pe Craftsy)

Hemming - my method, which gives a very nice inside of the garment. Even if I put the sleeves flat and sew afterwards the sleeve side seams and the sides times on the bodice, I hem afterwards and do not get lumpy seam allowances crossing the hem lines (see above). The hems (sleeves and gown) are very smooth and pretty to wear on the naked body: no rubbing from the loose seam allowances on the hem. 

Modul in care cos tivul e nou, pentru ca am gasit eu o metoda mai buna. Desi cos tivul de la maneca si cel al lateral al camasii in acelasi timp, fac tivul dupa aceea, ca sa fixez si ascund cusaturile lateral in tiv. Avantajul este - cum vedeti in poza de mai sus - ca tivurile sunt foarte placute la purtat, pentru ca sunt foarte plate. 

The inside is very clean, as pretty as it can be. Because of the topstitching, the seam allowances stay in place, which is a big plus for a night gown or a garment for children which will be washed often. You do not have to iron the seam allowances back in form, after you washed the garment.

Finisarea interioara este foarte frumoasa. Cusaturile decorative de la subrat si gat fixeaza tivurile, ceea ce este un mare avantaj daca faci hainute pentru copii, care nu trebuie sa-i zgarie si care trebuie spalate des. Tivurile sunt fixate, asa ca nu trebuie sa calci t-shirtul sau camasa ca sa revina la pozitia initiala.

So, let's start, after I shoot a couple of pictures first.

Deci sa incepem. Dar mai intai trebuie sa mai fac niste poze.

PART II 
Construction of a knit nightgown, shoulders (II) / Cum se coase o camasa de noapte din tricotaj, umerii (II)

Construction of a knit nightgown, neck (III) / Cum se coase o camasa de noapte din tricot, gatul (III)---

Here is the top of the needle, which I had in my thumb. It is OK now, but I had a lot of pain. Worse was that I could not use my hand as I was used to and I can forget about knitting for a while.

Acesta este varful de ac pe care l-am avut in deget. Mititel, nu? Acum sunt OK, dar am avut ceva dureri. Cel mai rau a fost ca nu puteam folosi mana asa cum voiam si ca trebuie sa renunt la tricotat o perioada.

Before I had this accident I took a 2 day class about textile art, with a German artist, Elsbeth Nusser-Lampe (Hortensia / Hydrangea). We used different materials and stitched even real dried flowers into the mini quilts we made. 

Inainte de a avea acest accident am urmat un curs de doua zile cu tema 'arta textila / hortensii' cu Elsbeth Nusser-Lampe din Germania. Am facut diferite mini quilturi, mai mult cartoline textile, din diferite materiale si - intre altele - si cu flori adevarate de hortensis, uscate si apoi calcate de noi ca sa le putem folosi.

Here is my work with the real petals, you saw above, which were first ironed, to lay flat.

Aici este ce am facut eu cu petale de mai sus, pe care le-am calcat sub hartie de copt.

I shall write about it, but it is not my cup of tea. I took this class only because it is good to know what it is possible to do with textiles and I must say that some of Elsbeth's quilts are impressive. I did not work very hard and I do not intend to finish what I started.

Probabil ca voi scrie despre asta, dar nu e ceva care ma entuziasmeaza in special. Am facut acest curs, fiindca voiam sa vad ce tehnici se pot aplica la textile. Trebuie sa recunosc ca unele din (mini-) quilturile lui Elsbeth sunt impresionante.
Nu m-am omorat insa la curs si nu am de gand sa termin ce am inceput.