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joi, 9 iulie 2015

Methods to bind a quilt II (Sharon Schamber versus Susan Cleveland) / Metode de a finisa un quilt II (Sharon Schamber versus Susan Cleveland)

This is part II of the serie Methods to bind a quilt (Sharon Schamber versus Susan Cleveland). Part I in Methods to bind a quilt I (Sharon Schamber versus Susan Cleveland) / Metode de a finisa un quilt I (Sharon Schamber versus Susan Cleveland)

Fig. 1 (the pencil shows the invisible joining point /
Creionul este pus pe cusatura oblica cu care am unit capetele bieului)

I enjoy writing about this particular topic, because I think I can explain why Susan's method is superior to Sharon's. I am writing especially for Pam from the Patternmasterhelp group, who thinks like me:

>> I LOVE the math part of sewing - I know many don't, but I love it that all the classes I sat through in HS and college, listening to people complain about 'When are we ever going to use this?' and I use it all the time.  I might have to look up the formula or remind myself about how to do it, but I use it all the time. <<


Am scris aceasta postare pentru Pam de pe grupul Patternmasterhelp, care mi-a scris pe grup ca ii place sa aplice principiile din matematica la cusut.

Pam, you will love the math part in Susan's method, the most logical method to apply a binding to a quilt AND a garment, with invisible joints. 

Aceasta este partea cea mai interesanta din ciclul "Metoda de a finisa un quilt (Sharon Shamber versus Susan Cleveland)": cum se incheie bieul, ca sa se potriveasca perfect si sa nu se vada unde au fost cusute capetele.


Metoda aceasta de a incheia bieul este foarte utila si in croitorie 



I already used the quilting binding method for garments with great success, because I get a very clean bias finish.

Fig. 2

A. The math part / matematica din scoala aplicata la cusut

Capetele bieului sunt cusute pe aceeasi linie diagonala, atat de Sharon Schamber, cat si de Susan Cleveland. Diferenta este modul in care ele calculeaza / determina unde va trebui sa cosi. Aici intra matematica pe scena. 



Fig. 3 (Susan Cleveland)




Fig. 4 (Sharon Schamber, din tutorialul meu vechi)

If you watch carefully Fig. 4-5, you will see that we need to sew on the diagonal of a square. A square has equal sides, which means that the width of the unfolded binding is the dimension of the 4 sides of the square. 
This measurement plays no role in Sharon's method, but it is the starting point in Susan's method, which is simply BRILLIANT! And VERY PRECISE!

Daca ca uitati bine pe Fig. 4-5 veti vedea ca in ambele metode scopul final este sa determini patratul pe care trebuie sa cosi diagonala / cusatura finala.
La Sharon Schamber dimensiunea patratului nu joaca nici un rol, in schimb la Susan Cleveland este baza calculului lungimii definitive a celor doua capete a bieului. Din aceasta cauza metoda ei este PRECISA si BRILIANTA!

2. Susan's method - simple and brilliant (metoda lui Susan, simpla si brilianta)


1. Cut one end of the binding (here the right end in the picture)exactly where you want the joining seam. Remember that the joining seam will be diagonal, not perpendicular to the edge of the quilt.


Intai determini unde vrei sa ai cusatura de imbinare a bieului. Tine seama ca vei 
obtine o cusatura diagonala, nu perpendiculara pe marginea quiltului. 
Marcati linia verticala pe care ati taiat primul capat al bielui pe al doilea capat, care este pus intins PESTE primul capat taiat. 


Fig. 5 (cut one edge at 90 degree / taiati la 90 grade)


Only the cut is perpendicular on the edge (perfect 90 degrees)

Numai marginea taiata este perpendiculara pe marginea quiltului - atentie sa fie la exact 90 de grade!


2. Mark the vertical cutting line on the other end on the binding, which lies flat OVER the first (cut) end.

Fig. 6 (mark the second end / marcati al doilea capat al bieului)

3. Mesure on the second end, from the marked line, an overlap: 
(formula) "the width of the UNFOLDED binding (here: 2 1/4") + 1/4". Here I measured : 2 1/2".

Masurati pe al doilea capat al bieului, pornind de la linia marcata si in directia opusa:

(formula) latimea bieului NEINDOIT (aici: 2 1/4 inches) + 1/4 inch
In sistemul metric 1/4" este 0,63 cm.
Eu am masurat mai jos 2 1/2 inches, distanta pe care cele doua capete se SUPRAPUN.


Fig. 7 (width unfolded binding + 1/4" / latimea bieului neindoit + 1/4")

4. Cut the second edge as in the picture below. The cut edges overlap exactly with this measurement = [width of the unfolded binding + 1/4"].
Taiati acum ca in poza de mai jos. Marginile taiate se suprapun pe distanta =  [latimea bieului desfacut + 1/4 inch].


Fig. 8

NB. It looks like I did not measure well. The ruller is on a higher plane than the quilt and the measurement looks wrong. I did not realise this when I took the picture.

NB. S-ar parea din Fig. 8 ca nu am masurat bine, dar asta este numai o iluzie. Se vede asa fiindca linia de masurat era asezata pe un alt plan decat quiltul, cand am facut poza. Nu mi-am dat seama de asta decat prea tarziu.


5. Susan Cleveland says: 'let the ends kiss each other' as below. Be careful not to twist them when they 'kiss', right sides together.

Susan Cleveland numeste aceasta pozitie 'sarutul dintre cele doua capete ale bieului'. Aveti insa grija ca bieul sa nu fie sucit si sa fie unit 'fata pe fata'.

Fig. 9

6. Now Susan says to turn the right end (in the picture) to form a 90 degrees angle with the left end (as you see it in the picture).

Acum trebuie rotata partea din dreapta (cum se vede in poza) la 90 de grade fata de partea din stanga.



Fig. 10


Place the left part and the rotated right part as you see in Fig. 11.
Position the two ends, in such a way that you have some excess of fabric left and above: a generous 1/8". I shall explain later why this measurement.

Puneti cele doua parti, cu partea dreapta rotata, asa cum se vede in Fig. 11, avand grija sa aveti un exces de material la dreapta si sus de 1/8 inch (adica jumatate din 0,63 cm). O sa va explic mai jos de ce e nevoie de asta.



Fig. 11

It is very, very important not to twist the binding. Therefore another picture with the correct position. Watch in Fig. 12 where the binding unfolds (right side, after the pin) and the direction the right face and the wrong face go.


Aveti foarte, foare mare grija sa nu fie bieul sucit. De aceea mai pun o poza in care puteti urmari capetele bieului, asa cum sunt cusute pe quilt, unde se deschide indoitura bieului (in dreapta langa locul marcat de acul de gamalie) si cum sunt unite, fata pe fata.



Fig. 12

7. Now you can mark the seam line if you prefer. If you are an experienced sewer you do not have to mark.


Acum puteti marca linia pe care coaseti. Nu e nevoie sa marcati, daca aveti experienta la cusut.



Fig. 13

8. Before you trim the seam allowances, verify if the binding fits and if it is not L shaped, which you get if you sew on the wrong diagonal of the square.


Inainte de a taia tivurile, controlati daca bieul este in linie dreapta (veti obtine un bieu in unghi L, daca nu coaseti pe diagonala corecta) si daca are exact lungimea quiltului sau marginii de haina pe care il puneti.



Fig. 14

9. Now you can trim... Acum puteti taia tivurile ...



Fig. 15

9. ... and iron the binding. If you used glue like me, take care to pull off the binding and the quilt to unglue the accidentally glued parts. If you use Roxanne's glue or glue using a bottle and a glue tip, you will not have this problem. Only a glue stick will cause such 'accidents', which are easily repaired, provided you use a light washable (school) glue.


 ... si calca bieul ca sa obtineti o margine cusuta frumoasa.

Daca folositi lipici, ca mine, aveti intai grija sa desfaceti partile de bieu lipte de fata quiltului inainte de a calca. 
Daca folositi un lipici special (Roxanne's) sau o sticla cu varf fin de aplicare a lipiciului nu veti avea astfel de probleme. 
Lipind insa cu un tub de lipici veti da din loc in loc si peste linia de cusut, asa ca va trebui sa dezlipiti ce ati lipit din greseala.
Daca folositi un lipici pentru copii, lavabil, nu veti deteriora materialul cand deslipiti partile lipite din greseala.


Fig. 16

3. Why I don't use Sharon Schambers's method anymore / De ce am renuntat la metoda lui Sharon Schamber

I shall show you why, using some pictures from my posting Tutorial: bieul la quilt. You can see only looking at these pictures how much more complicated Sharon's method is. 
I even do not bother to make this pictures very big, to show all the details. They are here only to make you understand the differences with Susan's method.

Am sa pun aici cateva poze din Tutorial: bieul la quilt, ca sa intelegeti mai bine. Veti vedea cat de inutil de complicata este metoda lui Sharon Schamber, pe care o foloseam inainte. 
Nici macar nu ma obosesc sa maresc pozele ca sa vedeti in detalii despre ce e vorba. O vedere de ansamblu este suficient de clara si veti intelege de ce sunt atat de entuziasmata de metoda lui Susan Cleveland.









4. Some more math for sewers / Iarasi ceva matematica la cusut

A) If you remember the formula for the overlap, we added 1/4" to the final measurement of the square (which is the width of the unfolded binding), but we use only a generous 1/8 inch for the fabric excess, which will be cut off. 


Daca va amintiti formula pentru calcularea lungimii pe care se suprapun cele doua capete ale bieului, am adaugat 1/4 inch la latimea bieului, din care insa folosim mai mult de jumatate, ca sa avem un exces de fabrica de 1/8", care va fi insa oricum taiat cand terminam de cusut bieul.


I asked myself why can't I use just the width of the unfolded binding and position the 90 degrees cut edges exactly as in picture 10 or 11.

Why I need to assure an 1/8" fabric excess as in Fig. 11-12?

M-am intrebat de ce. Nu ar fi mai simplu sa luam in considerare numai latimea bieului neindoit, fara sa adaugam 1/4 inch sau - in orice caz - 1/8 inch?


I think we need the generous 1/8" to avoid sewing from a a sharp corner of a square to the other square, as I wrote in my previous posting under Fig. 5.


Raspunsul este NU, pentru ca acel mic exces de material de 1/8 inch, care se lasa deasupra si la dreapta patratului definitiv (Fig. 11-12), ne ajuta la cusut linia diagonala: in acest fel nu trebuie sa incepem sa coasem exact din varful unui unghi de 90 grade. Ceea ce nu este usor. Dar despre asta am mai scris sub Fig. 5 in partea I a acestei serii.

This means that we we could add only a scant 1/8" in the formula for the overlap measurement to form the square for the final diagonal sewing line.
We could change the formula in:


[Width of the unfold binding + 1/8"]

B) But what about the other 1/8" (a scant 1/8" after we subtract the generous 1/8" as fabric excess)? Why do we need it? 
I guess the scant 1/8" is what we need to compensate for the turn of cloth. I cannot find any other logical explanation.

Dar ramane intrebarea: pentru ce avem nevoie de jumatate din ceea ce am calculat in plus, adica acel 1/8 inch care ramane in bieu? Cred ca se foloseste la compensarea lungimii de bieu care se pierde, cand indoi pe diagonala pe care ai cusut. In englezeste asta se numeste 'turn of cloth'.

O alta explicatie logica nu gasesc.

I also presume that I could chose not to have the extra length of scant 1/8" and use the formula [Width of the unfold binding + 1/8"], but only if have a large opening unsewn, before I join the ends of the binding. 
In this way I can distribute the 'tightness' (the missing scant 1/8") over a large portion of the quilt.

In quiltul urmator am sa folosesc formula lui Susan Cleveland, dar am sa folosesc tot surplusul de 1/4" la pozitionarea capetelor de bieu ca in Fig. 11-12. Cred ca nu exista pericolul de a avea un bieu prea strans, daca am grija sa las capetele necusute al bieului suficent de lungi. In felul acesta distribui in mod egal 'pierderea' de 1/8 inch pentru 'turn of cloth' pe o portiune mai mare.

Anyhow, I intend to try this next time, by using the whole 1/4" extra in Susan's formula only as 'fabric excess' (Fig. 11-12). 

Why I intend to do this? Because the formula without 1/4" being a scant 1/8" for the turn of cloth and a generous 1/8" helping to sew a diagonal line on a square, will be easier for metric measurements, where it is very complicated to add / measure 0,63 cm. For metric measurements will be easier to use a formula: 'width of the unfolded binding + 0,5 cm', where that extra 0,5 cm is only helpful excess fabric. I think it is worth to try...

Incerc asta ca sa vad daca pentru sistemul metric, in care e mai greu sa masori 0,63 cm, as putea folosi formula urmatoare:

[latimea bieului neindoit + 0,5 cm],

Iar acel 0,5 cm adaugat sa il folosesc numai pentru excesul de material care te ajuta sa cosi mai simplu linia diagonala, ca si cand nu as avea nevoie de 'turn of cloth'.


5. I hope you find my comments on these two methods of binding - Sharon Shamber's and Susan Cleveland's - useful.

Sper sa va fi folosit comparatia dintre aceste doua metode de aplicare a bieului.

Aceasta este Partea II din seria "Metode de a finisa un Quilt (Sharon Schamber versus Susan Cleveland)".


Happy quilting and happy sewing! /Spor la cusut si la quiltuit!

Part I / Partea I o gasiti aici:

Un comentariu:

  1. Foarte clar si util, am sa folosesc metoda asta data viitoare cand voi incheia ceva cu bie.

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